 |
 |
|
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||
|
© Samiskt Informationscentrum |
|
|
|
|
| Traditional costume |   |
 |
|
From Gällivare northwards, the traditional Sami outer garment is called the kolt, or gákti, and there are several different variants of this. The kolt varies in appearance between different parts of Sápmi. A person who knows about different kolts can determine where a person comes from by the kolt he or she is wearing. Materials The most traditional kolts are made of leather, broadcloth or frieze. An enormous number of different fabrics are now available, and just as with other clothes, the kolt also follows fashion trends. The most common colours found in kolts are various shades of blue or black. Kolts in all different colours are worn on festive occasions. Flowery fabric is also used, although mostly in the summer. Decoration The decoration on the kolts is made of broadcloth and is mostly red and yellow, with elements of blue and green. Some of the Northern Sami kolts have richly coloured decorative bands, including zigzag bands. The decoration differs from area to area, and from one family to the next. In the areas where decorative bands are used, there are many different variants depending on family, relationship and the seamstress. However, there are certain set rules that should be followed regarding the positioning and choice of colours for the edgings. The width of the broadcloth and the zigzag decoration can vary depending for example on family and age. The women's kolt The women's kolt can vary from knee-length to far down on the calves. The cut also differs from area to area. The back is divided into between four and six long widths with edgings in-between. The simplest variant has only red edging between the seams. Other variants have both red and yellow edgings, as well as decorative bands in different colours sewn into the broadcloth. The red and yellow broadcloth, as well as green or blue broadcloth, is found between the yoke's two seams, as are the decorative bands. The bottom of the kolt is decorated with red and/or yellow cloth, as well as decorative bands in those areas where these are used. The same decoration is used at the bottom of the sleeves. In order to increase the width of the kolt, wedges are inserted from the waist down. Many Northern Sami kolts are pleated. The kolt's V-shaped neck opening is decorated with red broadcloth or red broadcloth with decorative bands. On many variants, the broadcloth is moulded so that it forms a cross in the middle at the front. The women use a fringed shawl, which can be in all possible colours. The shawl is placed over the shoulders and held together in the middle at the front with a silver brooch. The men's kolt The men's kolt varies in length, but always reaches below the wearer's bottom. The cut also differs from area to area. The decoration follows the same pattern as on the women's kolt, except that the broadcloth is usually wider. The opening on the men's kolt is held together with a silver clasp or braided yarn. The kolt also has a collar, the height of which varies from five to ten centimetres. The decoration on the collar varies, but matches the other decoration on the kolt. Inside the opening at the front, the man wears either a scarf or a bosom-cloth. The bosom-cloth can be made of the same fabric as the kolt or in a different colour, and is often decorated in a similar manner to the kolt. The belt The women wear either a woven belt, with a yellow or white base and red pattern threads, or a belt sewn from leather or broadcloth. In some areas the women also use firkalbáddi (apron strap), one long woven strap. The men usually have a belt made of black leather with silver buttons, although there are also other variants. Trousers Along with the kolt, the women wear normal stockings and the men wear trousers made of fabric or leather. In the winter gálsoga or bittut can be worn, trousers sewn from gápmasat¸ reindeer leg skins. Shoes and shoelaces The Northern Sami shoelaces are woven with a white or yellow base and red pattern threads. There are different patterns for men and women. The traditional shoes worn with the kolt are cázehat, which are sewn from hairless leather, and nuvtagat, which are sewn from reindeer leg skins. Other shoes can also be worn with the kolt, such as factory-made peaked shoes. Caps All the different areas have their own cap, and the cut and appearance of the caps varies considerably. Luhka The most common outer garment worn with the kolt nowadays is the luhka, or poor weather collar. This is made from frieze or broadcloth and decorated with red and yellow broadcloth in the seams as well as red broadcloth in the decorative bands at the neck opening and at the bottom. Curious facts The Karesuando kolt can be found from Karesuando in the north to southernmost Härjedalen. This is because families from Karesuando were forcibly relocated to the south from Karesuando at the beginning of the 20th century. Even though many people today are the third or fourth generation of those who were relocated, they have retained the Karesuando kolt used by their relatives. Senast ändrad: 2006-05-29 |
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
